UN Memorial Cemetery in Korea

I've been meaning to visit the UN Memorial Cemetery in Korea (UNMCK) for a while now, as it's located here in Busan and it's actually the only cemetery in the world dedicated to UN soldiers. I had put it off because it takes about 1 hour 30 minutes to travel there from my apartment by public transportation. Also, while meaningful and educational, it's certainly sombre and sad. Even the night before, I was wavering on my decision to go, but ultimately decided to make the trip in the early hours of Sunday morning.

When I arrived, I saw uniformed soldiers marching in formation. Other military members, both Korean and American appeared to be setting up for some sort of ceremony. It was an amazing coincidence that I decided to go to the UNMCK on June 6th, which is Memorial Day in Korea. The ceremony started at 10am and I arrived at 9:45am. I didn't know it was Memorial Day until I checked my phone later, but I sensed the ceremony was important. Not a large crowd, but certainly there were visitors who came for this occasion.

A moment of silence was followed by the sound of a siren. The soldiers held their position still and silent. I believe the South Korean national anthem was played, and then a wreath was presented. At this particular section of the cemetery, two-man crews cycled through every grave and meticulously placed a white flower on the headstone. I watched as they honoured the heroes of many countries, including Canada.

Canadians will be pleased to know that our fallen soldiers who rest in Busan after giving their young lives in the Korean War are respected and revered by their Korean caretakers. The cemetery is well cared for and I believe Koreans appreciate the sacrifices that were made by the participating UN forces that ultimately secured their country.

Of the 516 Canadians who perished during the Korean War in the 1950s, 380 are currently interned at the UN cemetery. At one point, there were 11,000 graves, but many have been returned to their various home countries. Currently, 2,3000 rest at the UN Memorial Cemetery in Busan.

There is a waterway that stretches across one edge of the cemetery. It is dedicated to an Australian soldier, JP Daunt, who is the youngest interned at the cemetery. He was only 17 years old when he fell in battle.

The Wall of Remembrance lists the names of every soldier who died, organized by country. The American portion of the wall is exceeding large and is divided by state. The United States lost 36,492 in the Korean War. South Korean military forces had 237,686 fatalities.

We engrave your names in our hearts with love. We inscribe your names in our land with appreciation.

Here are the UN nations that participated in the war:

Australia
Belgium
Canada
Colombia
Denmark
Ethiopia
France
Germany
Greece
India
Italy
Luxembourg
Netherlands
New Zealand
Norway
Philippines
South Africa
Sweden
Thailand
Turkey
United Kingdom
United States

It is estimated that 5 million people died in the Korean war 1950-1953, half of which were civilians. Approximately 10% of the Korean pre-war population died during the conflict. A peace treaty was never formally ratified, so the two Koreas remain in a technical state of war that has lasted decades.

Busan is significant in South Korea as the only city not to be captured by the North Korean forces. It was the last bastion for the South on the brink of defeat, as the UN forces formed a perimeter around Busan for their last stand. Many people fled to Busan from Seoul and other places in the country as refugees to escape the destruction of the war. Using the Port of Busan to their advantage, the UN forces were able to amass supplies and re-enforcements and held out for six weeks before a counter-attack was launched that made the Northern army retreat northwards.

The area around the cemetery is adorned with flags from various nations, and the street is called UN street. The sidewalk has the word  'peace' in different languages placed every few meters. 

Later, when talking to the Korean teachers, they said that Korean students often go to the cemetery for field trips to learn about the history of the Korean War. It's good to know that Korean students are being educated on this part of their history. When I read about the issue with North Korea and speak to my Korean colleagues, it's clear that they see "Korea" as one country that is unnaturally split into two. There is the hope of reunification someday, while cognizant of the practical and political obstacles that make the realization of the dream seem distant.