Haedong Yonggung Temple

After staying close to home for the peak of the COVID-19 wave in Korea, I had a free day and decided to take advantage of the low corona-virus numbers to do some sightseeing. One of the most famous images of Busan that you'll find in all of the guidebooks is the Haedong Yonggung Temple, and it's been at the top of my to-do list since arriving in Korea.

The need to avoid crowds was one reason I hadn't visited this top tourist attraction until now. The other reason is that it is over two hours away from my apartment by public transportation since I live on the opposite side of the city. Determined to finally make it to the temple, I got up extra-early on a Sunday morning and made the long trip via subway and bus.

The Haedong Yonggung Temple in eastern Busan was originally built in 1376 but destroyed during the Japanese invasion of 1592-1598. The current iteration of the temple was rebuilt in the 1930s. It is promoted as the most beautiful temple in Korea and is unique because of its seaside location. It is a spiritual place where Koreans come for prayer and to admire the beauty of the temple by the sea. The motto of Haedong Yonggung temple is "at least one of your wishes will be answered here through your heartful prayers."

There are several statues on the temple grounds for specific prayers. Rub a Buddha on the belly and be granted a son. Another Buddha is for those seeking academic success. There was an interesting 7-storey pagoda for ensuring traffic safety when driving your vehicle. My favourites were the enormous, golden pigs that support general luck. 

Common advice is to arrive at the temple first thing in the morning to enjoy the spectacular sunrise with the added bonus of avoiding the crowds. The temple opens at 5am but with the aforementioned two-hour travel time, that was not going to happen. I arrived around 9:30am - early enough to get some photos without other tourists in the shot, but that didn't last long. The temple filled up with people as the minutes went by. I enjoyed the architecture and the various statues, but it was difficult to appreciate the intended serenity of the temple with so many other people around.

I wandered around the temple grounds, snapping photos and taking in the scenic view of the sea for about 90 minutes, then I trekked 10 minutes back down a hill to the bus stop and decided to enjoy a stroll at Haeundae Beach, which is a short drive from the temple. I hadn't been to Haeundae Beach for months and it was an amazingly warm and sunny day for February (15°C). Inexplicably, the beach was still adorned with Christmas decorations.

The weather is getting nicer and I hope to do more sightseeing in Korea this year, depending on what happens with the pandemic. Who knows, I may even be able to visit some nearby countries if things go well. Wear a mask everyone!