Jangsan Mountain is located in the western part of Busan so, yet again, I needed to travel to the other end of the city for this adventure. I woke up early on Saturday morning and walked towards the subway in the warm air at 6:15 am. After a transfer and a trip to the end of the line, I arrived at Jangsan station at 8 am with my backpack, a few snacks, and some water. Jangsan Mountain was still another 20-minute walk from the station. I was told to walk straight towards the mountain, and that's what I did. At 8:30 am, I reached the park before the worst of the heat and the crowds. I looked over some of the maps and did my best to translate. I made a note of the Korean word for "peak" (정상). I noticed that there were three trails to the top: easy, moderate, and hard. I, of course, decided to try my luck with the beginner trail this first time.
Unfortunately, the trail markings were few and far between, and those that I saw were in Korean and confusing. I quickly lost sense of which trail I was on. I doubled back once but figured that as long as I'm moving up the mountain it will be fine. It was fine, but I soon found myself very alone on the trail. While definitely a proper trail, it certainly wasn't the "easy" trail I had intended to take. My new trail featured rough terrain, steeps, and few good places to stop for a rest. Still, I was having fun, enjoying the weather and making progress. I found a decent walking stick and carried on.
Eventually, and nearly exhausted, the trees open up to a landing that held, of all things, an outdoor gym with exercise machines and equipment. I saw a group of old people lifting weights and I thought, "how did you guys get up here?" I sat down and had a snack as I watched these octogenarian super-athletes lift their weights on the side of a hiking trail.
Back on the trail, and after climbing for about 2 hours, I finally saw a sign that pointed towards the peak, only 1 km farther. I reached the top, the ground flattened out, and I had a beautiful view of the surrounding scenery and green hills. Unfortunately, I also saw another peak just off to the side and slightly higher up. I was certain that I had gotten off the easy trail and ended up at this false peak. The other peak had a staircase and a lookout platform and several hikers were gathered there, so I knew that's where I needed to go. Somewhat dejected, I carried on for another 20 minutes or more until I reached the staircase of doom. Clearly, I was getting close to my goal, but propelling myself straight uphill was more than strenuous in my tired state.
Winded and leaning on the staircase while looking particularly tired and pathetic, several Korean hikers went by, and I'm sure they meant to offer some encouraging words with their smiles. Instead, what they actually said was, "I'm tired." Clearly, they meant I was tired, not them because they bounced up the stairs while I was dead tired.
The Korean hikers were generally friendly and helpful. I received many smiles, a few 'hellos', and other encouragements. I think there is camaraderie in the shared struggle of climbing a mountain that transcends language. I definitely connected better with people on that mountain than anywhere else in Korea, so far. I'm encouraged to take up hiking more regularly. Of course, I still got plenty of open-jawed stares along the way, but all in all, people were really nice on Jangsan Mountain.
Finally, I reached the top and I was rewarded with some excellent views of Haeundae and Gwangan Bridge. Thankfully, the air was relatively clear so I was able to take a few pictures. I rested in the amazing weather. My legs were jelly.
To be honest, I don't think I made it to the true summit. While the lookout was amazing with some picturesque views, I saw another trail leading up to an even higher peak. Some of the Koreans marched on, and one even encouraged me to keep going. I'd like to give it another try sometime, but I was too physically tired, and emotionally spent having thought that my climb was already over. There was no way I was going to climb any further.
I took a different path down the mountain that turned out to be much easier, and I'm not just talking about gravity. There was a craved out path with wooden planks, stairs, and rope supports. I think it was the "easy" trail that I wanted to take in the first place. Hiking down the mountain took half as long.
I had my sandwich in the park at the bottom of the mountain and then took the long subway ride back to my home. I was conscious of my smell on the subway, surrounded by Koreans who hadn't struggled up and down a mountain for 3+ hours. I was too tired to care.
I went home and was clearly dehydrated. I showered, drank water, and rested. After I while I felt well enough to go out for a well-deserved dinner. I was so hungry and maybe a little delirious because I was laughing and smiling at the table. The fried, battered pork and cheese was amazing!
Hiking in the 23°C Spring weather is ideal. It's already getting hotter than that in early May. I think it's going to be a scorching Summer here in Busan so I'm glad I was able to hike Jangsan Mountain before it got unbearably hot.
No comments:
Post a Comment